Admin Note: These tips are my opinion, based on dozens of trips back to Japan since mission days in the 1970s. Suggestions are always welcome. If you click on a link that is outdated or have suggestions, please let me know using the 'Contact Us' link at left.
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General Japan Travel Tips
When to Go
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| Kakunodate (between Akita and Morioka) 24 Apr 2009 |
Japan has become almost too popular for foreign tourists since the pandemic, so part of your planning might focus on when not to go to avoid overcrowding. Japan has four distinct seasons. In my opinion, spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) are the best times to visit, but you might want to avoid one of Japan's biggest holidays, Golden Week --27 April to 6 May, when locals have time off and many of them travel; trains are packed. Rainy season for most of Japan generally runs from early June through July, and in the Tōhoku (northeast) region, a couple of weeks later. Natsu Matsuri (summer festival) season (late July-early August) is stiflingly hot and muggy, but the festivals might be worth it. In winter, tourist areas are less crowded but it may be too cold and snowy for some. Sakura (cherry blossom) season is amazing, but it is both difficult to predict and can be overcrowded. For me, late October - early November is the sweet spot.
Passport/Visa requirements Unless you're staying more than 90 days and as long as your passport is from US, Canada or Australia, no visa is required. At arrival, your passport must be valid for the entire time you are staying in Japan. Stays longer than 90 days (workers, teachers, missionaries, etc.) need a visa obtained in advance. Note that all foreign visitors to Japan are photographed and (electronically) fingerprinted upon entry (when you show your passport/QR entry code at immigration at the arrival airport.
Before you Go - Online Immigration & Customs Forms For a smoother entry at arrival in Japan, use the Visit Japan Web Site (no smartphone app is available) to register and digitally submit immigration and customs information online within 30 days before arrival. Have your passport and itinerary handy when you register online. Once successfully registered, your QR code (printout or smartphone screenshot) is scanned in Japan at both immigration and customs. This is a great alternative to filling out and submitting paper forms. Hint: I register online on my PC; once complete, I use a Smartphone browser to log into the same ‘Visit Japan Web’ site to display the QR Code and take a screenshot to show from my phone at arrival.
Optional Duty-Free QR Code. The Visit Japan Web site can also be used to create a tax exemption QR code during registration, but its practical use remains limited. Most retailers still prefer or insist on scanning your physical passport for duty-free purchases.
Trains are the way to travel anywhere in Japan. If you plan to travel even just a few long distances by train, you should consider a Japan Rail Pass. Please refer to the Train Tips section where rail travel is discussed in detail. Buses can take you pretty much wherever trains can't.
Highway Buses are also an option and are generally cheaper than rail. However, since travel using JR Rail Pass makes unlimited train travel affordable, I personally only use busses when local train service is limited. Between Koriyama and Iwaki, for example, there are only five trips daily over the mountains by JR rail (¥1,790 (or free with JR Pass), but buses (¥1,900) run more frequently (12 trips daily). Regional bus companies publish their schedules on the internet; if you know the bus company name (Konan in Hirosaki, for example), you can Google search schedules, probably in Japanese for Tohoku. Tickets are usually purchased on a walk-up basis. Online train schedule sites such as Jorudan's Japan Transit Planner also include certain highway bus schedules, and many JR regional bus routes are free with the JR Pass.
Hitchhiking In the days before JR Rail Passes, my buddy Ken White and I hitchhiked pretty much the whole country north to south, from Hokkaidō to Kyūshū, catching a few train rides in-between. Two important tips: 1) you need a paper map/atlas or smartphone map app to locate detailed highway on-ramps. 2) you need to have supplies (poster paper, fat marker) to create destination signs to hold up (preferably written in Japanese). We found it much easier to be picked up with Japanese, rather than ro-maji (roman lettered) signs, perhaps it made the driver feel at ease to think they wouldn't have to speak exclusively English to communicate. Even though we thought we could write kanji pretty well, we usually asked a nearby Nihonjin (such as at a hostel) to write out the sign for us.
Taxis are lined up at every train and most subway stations, and are best used f
or the 'last mile' to your final destination after riding public transit, since they're rather pricey for just one person - more practical if you have up to four in your party. (jumbo taxis, 5-6 people, are rare, and are more expensive). A few taxis accept payment by credit card or by IC card, especially in Kyoto. Logo stickers on taxi doors usually indicate accepted payment methods. When paying in cash, try to avoid paying small fares with large bills (e.g., ¥10,000 bill). Tipping is not done in Japan.
Here's a good taxi reference page. A couple of need-to-knows: A taxi's left rear door is usually opened and closed remotely by the driver; you usually don't open or close that door by yourself. If your destination is well-known (hotels, for example), you should be fine speaking English. Alternatively, give your driver the name / address of your destination on a piece of paper or - even better - point it out on a map, since the Japanese address system can be confusing even to local taxi drivers. Another alternative with taxi drivers is to use smartphone translation apps such as Google Translate.
Rental Cars are available at train stations and airports but are relatively expensive. Unless you're traveling to (rare) remote areas that aren't served by public transportation, it would be hard for me to recommend renting a car, especially with the issues of left-hand driving and navigation. If you do plan on driving, international driving permits (good for one year from issuance date) can be obtained for $20 at AAA before your departure.
Packing lightly is key if you're planning much travel within Japan. You'll need to pack lightly enough to easily carry/roll your own stuff everywhere. You can do laundry yourself at most hostels, hotels and some onsen, or have it done at larger hotels fairly inexpensively. Even for a 10-day trip, I recommend considering what I've learned to do: pack only what will fit into a airline-legal-size carry-on with wheels (the size that will fit into an airline overhead bin), plus perhaps a backpack or smaller carry-on. Plan to wash your stuff half-way through the trip in order to halve your packed quantities.
Assuming you're traveling on trains, be aware that large suitcases can't easily be accommodated. Overhead bin-size luggage will usually fit on the (not deep at all) storage rack above train seats. There is also usually a space behind the last row of seats on each train car where a larger case will fit. Only a few types of trains have limited luggage storage space at the ends of the cars.
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Suica lockers at Sakata eki (2023)
(most lockers are IC-card payment)
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Carry-on size luggage will also fit more easily into lockers located in train stations. I've used lockers many times (most are rentable using Suica; coin lockers may still exist in remote, small stations) to store stuff while I'm out exploring during the day. Lockers allow all-day storage until midnight from between ¥300-¥700, depending on the size.
Luggage storage is also possible at your hotel, both if you arrive early or usually even if you've checked out, usually at no charge. Japan also has an efficient luggage forwarding/delivery system. Here's more luggage information and pictures that illustrate luggage on trains, lockers and luggage delivery.
Shoes. Unless you enjoy bending over and untying and lacing your shoes often, it's wise to bring shoes that slip on and off easily. I wear Skechers. Many places in Japan – including onsens and ryokan (traditional inns), homes, temples, and many izakaya (pubs) and restaurants – require you to remove your shoes at the genkan (entrance) before entering.
Where to Stay and How to Reserve
Reserving accommodations has become easier in recent years on the Internet. Many Japanese-owned places don't take reservations more than three or six months in advance. If you're traveling 'on the fly' and arrive in a town without having booked a place to stay, the local eki (train station) may still have a travel information desk or tourist office that can help during normal business hours. Directions, maps, bicycle rental and even phone calls checking lodging availability are typical services provided there. If you arrive late at night, "walk-up" traffic to accommodations near an eki is usually a possibility. Most all accommodations take credit cards, except hostels and some ryokan/onsen - be prepared with yen currency (genkin) just in case. Some ideas for options on where to stay:
Hostels If you are on a budget and are adventurous, consider hostels. You usually need to become a member in your own country to stay. Visit Hosteling International USA for information-a one-year adult membership is $20. Japan Youth Hostels has an English website with good explanations, maps, rules and reservation info. Typical fees for these dormitory-type accommodations are $30/night--(~¥4,000). Evening and morning meals are also available for around $14 and $8 respectively (¥1,700 and ¥900, respectively). Sometimes they require you to bring your own sheets. Admin note: Japanese business hotels (discussed below) can be less than $60 in smaller cities and generally include better, private rooms (vs. dorm rooms), clean linen and breakfast - in my observation, they're generally closer to train stations than hostels.
Western-Style Hotels and Japanese-Style Business Hotels Check the travel guides mentioned above for specific hotels they recommend. Western-style hotels in big cities can be reserved online on chain websites and search engines such as hotels.com or booking.com - they generally have bigger rooms but are generally spendy. Some may require pre-payment. On the other hand, I also recommend you also consider Japanese business hotels, which have smaller (some would say cramped) rooms, but in my opinion are adequate and reasonably priced, even in big cities, and usually include or offer breakfast. I recommend three business hotel chains (sometimes they appear on hotels.com or booking.com): Route Inn (select English on their site) and Dormy Inn are two similar chains, both of which usually offer large Japanese-style o-furo bathing (daiyoku-jō, similar to onsen or sentō bathing), sometimes on rooftop floor, in addition to showerbath prefab units in each room. If onsen-type bathing isn't important to you, consider Toyoko Inn, which has relatively new, clean and less expensive locations located near train stations throughout Japan.
Some Japanese reservation sites are in Japanese only, except JTB's Japanican, which is geared towards foreigners, and Rakuten Travel. Keep in mind the possibility of "walk up" traffic to hotels in smaller cities, especially in non-peak times--avoid golden week and local festivals.
Ryokan (Japanese Inns) To sample the best of Japanese accommodations, you might want to consider at least one night in a ryokan. Ryokan don't always welcome foreign guests (Japanese language ability is a huge plus) and are usually more expensive than hotels. They also range from elegant to shoddy--consult the travel guides and hotel websites suggested above plus Japanican or JNTO for more information. Ryokan usually include Japanese-style dinner and breakfast in the per-person price, as well futon rather than beds, and traditional ofuro (bath). Here's a webpage on onsen/traditional japanese bathing etiquette. Many onsen inns are really ryokan in a remote, mountain location in hot spring areas.
Onsen (HotSpring) Ryokan, hotels and even sometimes hostels are found in hot spring areas. True Onsen refers to a naturally occurring hot spring/mineral spa village, and the lodging would
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| Streamside rotenburo (open air bath) at an onsen in Tohoku |
feature traditional Japanese bathing. There are thousands of onsen in volcanic-zone laden Japan. Some onsen areas are overbuilt, concrete and garish, but many are charming and preserve the traditions of thatched-roof buildings and include rotenburo (outdoor bath), best located in a mountain and ideally, a streamside setting. Onsen accommodations are usually at the middle to high end of the lodging price range, but are, in my opinion, the ultimate in lodging and experience in Japan. As a reference, Japan's Hidden Hot Springs (1995, by Robert Neff) is available for Amazon.com's kindle ($10). Though it's over 30 years since this book was published in pre-Internet times, I've personally enjoyed many of the top-rated onsen located Northern Japan in Neff's book. Some onsen now have websites or are members of Nihon Hitō wo Mamoru Kai (discussed below), but some can still only be reserved by telephone, and only in Japanese. Recently, some onsen have started to appear on JTB's Japanican website and even on hotels.com. Here's a webpage on onsen etiquette.
If you're really into onsen you can also consider Nihon Hitō wo Mamoru Kai (Japan Association of Secluded Hot Spring Inns-currently in Japanese only). Once you register online as a member (no charge), their site offers reservations to an exclusive assortment of small, traditional, sometimes rustic onsen inns. I've used the site for reservations a number of times but usually also call to confirm both the reservation and eki shuttle pickup details.
Japanese Friend's Residence You may staying at the home of an acquaintance. If you served a mission in Japan, you probably remember the basic drill from countless visits to homes, so if you are traveling with others without such experience, consider giving a little training on shoes and genkans, small cramped spaces, o-furo technique, etc., before you arrive. Taking an omiyage (small gift/souvenir) is customary and would be a nice touch. As locals often do, consider buying a Japanese omiyage at the train station of the city from which you are traveling e.g., if you're in Sendai, buy some gyuutan (beef tongue) jerky, all wrapped up and gift-size, before boarding a train to your friend's destination.
AirBnb, Vrbo These vacation rental by owner accommodations exist in Japan and may be a good option for you, especially if you're staying multiple nights in the same area, since most have minimum stay requirements. You may be able to save a lot of money, but be careful about location - the website descriptions may not give you adequate address or location information as to distance from train stations.
How much Currency Do I Need? I don't use much currency these days - I use Suica ApplePay and Credit Cards, all discussed below. Japan was once a cash-based society, but that is changing as other payment methods are more accepted. Once I've confirmed the places I'm staying take credit cards, I usually only have about $200 worth of yen for 10 days. If I run out, an ATM is always near. Here's a guide on the subject. Before I leave the US, I order yen using my bank's smartphone app and pick it up from my nearby branch a day or two later.
Currency Exchange Arrival airports have bank exchange windows conveniently located right as you exit into the public waiting areas. There is usually more than one bank there, so there is some competition. Rates are fairly priced (way better than say, the US departure airport non-bank rip-off exchange booths - don't use those!). These same bank windows are found in Japan's airport departure wings for easy conversion back to your home currency.
ATMs You can use a US-based bank ATM (debit) card in Japan. I recommend the Japan Post Bank ATMs because they have an English display mode - fees are reasonable. Convenience Stores (7-11, for example) also have English-language mode on their ATMs. Commercial bank ATMs in Japan, in my experience, don't always have English display choices and may charge higher fees, so I avoid them.

Prepaid IC Cards (Suica) Once you have yen in hand in Japan, and don't have an iPhone that allows a digital version (see below), consider a prepaid integrated circuit (IC) card. Suica, administered by JREast. Suica and other prepaid IC Cards (Pasmo, ICOCA, etc.) are widely accepted throughout Japan. Suica is usable for train, subway and bus fare, as well as for purchases near train and subway stations. When your total appears at a convenience store register, simply say "Suica," to the cashier and tap the screen. It allows travelers to bypass lines at ticket vending machines and otherwise alleviates fumbling with currency and coins when making purchases at vending machines, convenience stores and from in-train food/beverage carts. To use at automated subway or train turnstiles, holders tap-on Suica at entrance then tap-off again at exit; the proper fare is deducted from the card. Warning: before use, ensure your prepaid IC card has enough funds added. Here are a FAQ pages for Suica Cards: Wiki, JREast, YouTube, How-to

Digital IC Cards on iPhone (Suica)
Suica ApplePay Option: The good news is that if you have an iPhone and use Apple Pay, open your wallet, click the plus sign to add Suica as a 'Transit Card' and fund it with with your Apple Pay funding source (I use Amex).
Once your digital Suica Transit Card is funded, you simply tap your iPhone as you would an IC Card (desribed above). At automated subway or train turnstiles, holders tap-on Suica at entrance then tap-off again at exit; the proper fare is deducted from your balance. No need to open your phone to open an app. Your prepaid balance is displayed on your phone so you can easily see when to add funds as needed by clicking the "Add Money" button.
(Admin Note: Funding with my Amex while earning more SkyMiles using ApplePay's Suica 'Transit Card,' is much more convenient than messing with cash funding a non-digital Suica card at a convenience store.)
Credit Cards are accepted in hotels, restaurants and stores in Japan. Visa is the most widely accepted, and American Express is also fairly commonly accepted, in my estimation, more than 60% of the time. Foreign currency transaction fees for credit cards range from 0%-3%, but are usually 0% on travel rewards credit cards, which are built for spending all around the world.
Smartphones/Wi-Fi in Japan/Electricity
Smartphones work in Japan if 4G or better. Smartphones may be used via international roaming or by using an e-SIM card. Many US/Canadian/Austrailian mobile providers offer international plans or temporary service in Japan for a reasonable additional daily charge for data and calls. Some plans include service with no changes or charges required - for example, on my T-Mobile plan, unlimited data and texting are included at no charge, w/voice calls at $.25/min.; I just have to switch on my iPhone's 'Data Roaming' when in a foreign country to get 'normal' service. Of course, using smartphones when connected to Wi-Fi eliminates cellular data use or phone charges.
Mobile Phones on Trains (CAUTION!). Talking on a mobile phone while riding in the coach sections on trains is NOT allowed; only between/outside cars on the 'deck' area. Even if you try to play "dumb gaijin (foreigner)" it is considered extremely rude; even the ultra-polite Japanese will give you glaring looks-don't do it!
Wi-Fi Connectivity, Pocket Wi-Fi is increasing in public areas in Japan. Most hotels and ryokan have Wi-Fi, usually at no charge. You can also rent an 'pocket Wi-Fi' device that typically for Internet access (via cell services) anywhere in Japan. These Pocket Wi-Fi devices can typically are relatively inexpensive to rent-you can pick them up at an airport at arrival and drop them off before departure. I recommend Ninja Wi-Fi. Some Shinkansen (bullet trains) offer Wi-Fi, but in my experience, don't work well. Here's JNTO's page on Wi-Fi connectivity.
Electricity. Here's a guide on Electricity in Japan. To overcome two-prong, non-grounded, non-polarized wall outlets found in Japan, Amazon has inexpensive US-to-Japan plug adapters/cords that that accept US-style grounded 3-pronged plugs and include USB ports for charging your gizmos.
Tips on Tohoku, Tokyo, Kyoto, Himeji, Hiroshima, Sapporo
Prologue: All of the tips below assume you will have the JR Rail Pass, a real no-brainer must-have for foreign travelers traveling to just a few cities in my opinion. If you have corrections or suggestions for this section, Contact Us.
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Koyo (fall colors) at Hirosaki Castle - Nov 2009
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Tohoku
Readers who lived in Tohoku as may already have in mind what you want to see and where you want to go. Once in Tohoku, shinkansen and zairaisen (conventional rail) travel allows you to go pretty much anywhere within a few hours; using Sendai as a base makes sense. Some key tourist areas to consider visiting are: Matsushima, Yamadera, Hiraizumi, Hirosaki Castle, and Kakunodate. Natsu Matsuri (Summer Festivals-primarily Aomori, Akita, Hirosaki, Sendai, Yamagata), held in July and August, are also worth noting, but accommodations must be secured well in advance. A reminder how stinkin' hot and humid it can be in July and August, and with climate change, it's even hotter these days. Tohoku also has some of the best onsen (hot spring inns) in all of Japan, and, also in my opinion, are quintessential Japan, but are best enjoyed in cool weather.
Tokyo
To many, Tokyo is just another big city. Here are a few suggestions:
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Tokyo's Shibuya Scramble crossing - Hachiko Exit of JR Shibuya station
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At night
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Shibuya Scramble Crossing – Hachiko exit of JR Shibuya eki.
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Observation Decks - The Tokyo Metropolitan Building Observation Deck, 15 minutes walk from JR Shinjuku eki is free. Tokyo Tower or Sky Tree are two famous towers with observation decks for a fee. A new tower, Shibuya Sky, is connected to JR Shibuya eki, but for afternoon-evenings must be reserved, up to two weeks in advance.
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Early morning
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Closed on both Sundays and National Holidays
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Daytime
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Imperial Palace
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Ginza (shopping)
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Akihabara (electronic stores)
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Asakusa (Kaminarimon/Nakamise: shopping, omiyage (souvenirs))
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Kamakura - outdoor buddha, allow a day due to distance. I prefer Todaiji's buddha in Nara (see below)
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Tokyo LDS Temple - Hibiya subway line, Hiroo station (exit 1) - 1 stop from JR Ebisu eki.
Kyoto
Kyoto is the cultural and historical heart of Japan and was the Imperial Capital until 1868. It's about 2.5 hours from Tokyo by Hikari bullet train, rideable by JR Rail Pass holders, which run at least once hourly. Due to its historic value, Kyoto’s treasured shrines, temples, numerous gardens and palaces were spared from air raids and during World War II. It is also a great base for day trips to Nara, Himeji (best castle in Japan) and Hiroshima (a must-see for historical value).
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Favorites: Kiyomizu-dera, Kinkakuji, Nijo-jo, Heian Jingu, Sanjusangen-do, Fushimi Inari Taisha, Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.
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Hotel. Lots of hotel choices, but the closer you are to Kyoto Eki, the better, in my opinion. My current favorite is Hotel Vischio Kyoto by GRANVIA , just one block from the Hachijo West Exit of Kyoto Station, and is reservable on booking.com. It has an awesome ofuro (onsen-style bathing) as a free amenity.
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JTB Tours - An easy way to get around to top venues with an English-speaking guide at a reasonable price. JTB Tours and Packages - decide for yourself what makes the most sense for you. I recommend the Kyoto Morning Tour (8:30 departure from Avanti's Sunrise Tours Desk (across from Kyoto Station Hachijo Exit) (only on weekdays, since Imperial Palace closed Sat-Sun), and I also recommend the Kyoto Afternoon Tour (13:30 departure from Avanti's Sunrise Tours Desk (across from Kyoto Station Hachijo Exit))
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Nara - The only ‘must see,’ in Nara, in my opinion, is “Todai-ji” "Daibutsu-den" where the
great Buddha is housed, but is easy to navigate on your own, vs. a tour. It makes a nice full afternoon when the light is better, perhaps after a Kyoto Morning Tour (discussed above). Using JR Rail Pass, you can ride a JR ‘rapid service’ commuter type train that takes only 44 minutes from JR Kyoto to JR Nara. Todaiji is about 5 minutes by taxi from JR Nara; allow about two hours there. We usually walk back to JR Nara station (vs. taxi) – via the shoten (covered shopping street) near the Kintetsu Nara eki, it’s not too crazy and kind of charming. After ‘Rapid Service’ train back to Kyoto, Porta Mall (underground mall that includes many restaurants) out the Kyoto eki’s Karasuma exit side, has countless options for dinner.
Himeji
I recommend Himeji-jo (Himeji-castle). It’s the best remaining Shogun-era castle in Japan. Allow at least two hours to explore the grounds and the extensive castle buildings, plus another hour if you're interested in the adjacent Koko-en garden. JR Himeji is less than one hour by Shinkansen from JR Kyoto (opposite direction from Tokyo; west past Shin-Osaka), and the castle is a comfortable slightly uphill 15-minute walk from the Himeji JR station. The castle opens at 9am. For train planning, consult apps/directories as discussed in Train Tips below.
Hiroshima
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Hiroshima genbaku do-mu
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From Kyoto, a good day trip is to Hiroshima, less than two hours by Shinkansen, even if a connection is required at JR Shin-Osaka. I recommend the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, which opens at 7:30am and is less than 15 minutes' taxi ride from JR Hiroshima. The historical impact of the museum can't be described in words. It's a sobering must-visit. Allow at 2-3 hours minimum at the museum and park. It can get very crowded. If you decide to go early and return late, you might consider also squeezing in Miyajima, the famous red torii and Itsukushima floating shrine, about 30 minutes by train from JR Hiroshima station. Allow 2-3 extra hours. It's a bit touristy, but.... famous.
Sapporo
RMs with a couple extra days on their hands (and on their JR Rail Pass) may want to consider riding the shinkansen from Shin-Aomori through the seikan tunnel to ShinHakodate-Hokutou (1 hr.) on to Hokkaido, where you can connect to a tokkyuu express conventional-line train (e.g., much slower than a shinkansen) to Sapporo (~3.5 hrs.) Flights to Sapporo are also an option - usually less than $100US one-way. Here's some top Sapporo attractions. Famous food dishes are of course, Sapporo Ramen (shops everywhere) and Genghis Khan/Jingisukan, an awesome lamb and vegetable dish that you cook yourself - shops everywhere, but my favorite is Sapporo Beer Garden (even if you don't drink beer), where Jingisukan is their specialty. RMs may be interested in Site details on visiting the Sapporo LDS temple here. The annual Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) is typically held early February each year.

Eligibility Japan's rail system is one of the world's finest. "JR" refers to Japan Railways Group,six separate regional privatized companies which cooperate with each other. Travelers on "temporary visitor" entry status to Japan should consider purchasing a JR Pass and will likely save money, even if they plan to travel to only to a couple of cities by rail. Visitors entering Japan on visas for stays longer than 90 days (e.g., employees, missionaries, students, and English teachers) are, unfortunately, not eligible. Japan Rail Pass is available for 7, 14 or 21 consecutive days from the start date you designate when you pick the pass up in Japan.
Purchasing JR Pass Online - Beware - Only One Official Site! JR Passes may be purchased online starting 30 days prior to first intended use in Japan, but only by using the official JR Rail Pass dedicated site, japanrailpass.net/en/, available 4am-11:30pm JT (all other sites are third-party, are 5-6% more expensive, and don't allow seat reservations until you're in Japan, so I don't recommend them).
Picking up the Pass When you arrive in Japan, activate and pick up your physical pass at a JR-designated ticket office counter. Present the reservation number issued when purchasing the ticket online and the passport that has a stamp or sticker certifying “Temporary Visitor.” Your eligibility will be confirmed. At Haneda Airport, most international arrivals use Terminal 3, where the JR East ticket office is located near the Monorail access exit.
JR Pass Value A JR Pass allows you virtually unlimited reserved seat travel on all of the JR rail lines, including all Shinkansen (Bullet Trains) except Nozomi and Mizuho trains, which run west of Tokyo and have fewer stops. Nozomi and Mizuho require additional incremental fares for each use by JR Pass holders, and are reservable only once you are in Japan. Hikari and Sakura Shinkansen run these same routes at no cost to JR Rail Pass holders, but make a few more stops.
To demonstrate Pass value:
| Individual Shinkansen Ticket Purchase - 2 trips |
versus |
7-day JR Pass (Ordinary Seats, unlimited trips) |
| Tokyo to Sendai, round trip |
¥22,820 |
SEVEN (consecutive) days of unlimited reserved seat travel on JR Lines, anywhere, including Shinkansen (except 'Nozomi' or 'Mizuho,' which require additional fares for each) ride) =
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| Tokyo to Kyoto on 'Hikari," round trip |
¥27,700 |
| Total |
¥50,520 |
¥50,000 |
Conclusion: A JR Pass makes sense to purchase if you plan to travel from Tokyo to even just two destinations (these are each 1.5-2.5 hours of travel).
What about a Green Car Pass? Consider choosing a pass for "green car" (comfort class) over the ordinary JR Pass. For a ~40% incremental cost, you then can travel in the green car available on all but local trains. Green cars are generally more quiet, have wider seats, and may be easier to reserve than ordinary seats. Around Tokyo, even commuter trains have green cars.
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| Shinkansen Ordinary Seat Configuration (2x3) |
Shinkansen Green Car Seat Configuration (2x2) |
Prices for JR Passes (using the official dedicated site)
| Type: |
Green |
Ordinary |
| Duration |
Adult |
Child 6-11 |
Adult |
Child 6-11 |
| 7-day |
¥70,000 |
¥35,000 |
¥50,000 |
¥25,000 |
| 14-day |
¥110,000 |
¥55,000 |
¥80,000 |
¥40,000 |
| 21-day |
¥140,000 |
¥70,000 |
¥100,000 |
¥50,000 |
See instructions above about purchasing and picking up your pass in Japan.
If you don't use the official JR Pass dedicated site, your price for third-party "Exchange Orders" will be 5-6% higher than the prices listed above. Effective 01 Oct 2026, JR raised the Exchange Order prices to encourage the use of their online purchasing service, which also allows customers to purchase reserve seats independently without going through a JR ticket counter.
Boarding Trains with JR Pass

Once you've received the actual pass after arrival in Japan (depicted above) JR Pass users go through automated station turnstiles to gain access to track areas, and it also gives them the ability to make seat reservations either at automated ticket machines (see Reservations section below). If you made reserved seat reservations online ahead of time, you can pick up reserved seat tickets at automated ticket machines - allow adequate time to do so before you board your train.
Note: If you reserve seats, you'll receive a separate, same sized reserved seat ticket, but you don't need to also insert it into the automated turnstile, only insert your JR Pass, which gets you access to the track area.
Your JR Pass is all you need. Simply insert your JR Pass into the slot at unmanned, automated turnstiles, but don't forget to retrieve it when it pops up on the other side, since they are not replaceable!


(the X at left above is showing NOT to also insert your reserved seat ticket into the automated turnstile. The only exception to this is when you use a reserve seat ticket machine in Japan to pay extra to upgrade before riding a Nozomi or Mizuho train, they ask you to stack that reserve seat ticket with your rail pass at the turnstile.)
On my most recent Japan trip, my pass stopped working at the turnstile for some reason after a few days. I was directed to simply go to the the manned entrance (at far-left or far-right side) to show my valid pass and was waved through.
Reserving and Using Reserved Seat Tickets - Three Options up to 30 days in Advance:
Most trains (other than local, commuter-type trains) have both reserved and non-reserved seats. Your JR Pass entitles you to reserved seats, so why not reserve them? Reserving seats in advance gives you peace of mind - I've found in recent years that fewer open seats are available, so I usually reserve in advance.
Option 1: Online Reservations (allows changes/cancellations before you pick up): If you purchased your pass online usi
ng JR's dedicated website described above, you can also book reserved seats, up to 30 days in advance of the train travel date, on the same website. Once in Japan, before you board your train, pick the reserved seat ticket up at JR stations using a JR Automated Ticket Machine. Select "receive reserved seat ticket reserved via website," scan the JR Pass QR code (or key in your pass number), and key in your passport number. The advantage of online reservations, as long as you do so before you pick them up, is that you can cancel a previous reservation online and change to another specific train online, so long as you cancel before the train departure time. Note the three choices above, including upgrading to use a faster, more frequent Nozomi or Mizuho train, which you can only do after you're in Japan.
Option 2: At a Ticket Office (the old-fashioned way): This alternative might be preferable for those who are unfamiliar with the rail system and require guidance on certain details, or those who might wish to make several advance reservations at once. Show your Pass at any JR station Travel Service Center or reserved seat ticket window, called "Midori-no-madoguchi," or at a travel agen
cy in Japan. The green sign at left (with figure in reclining seat) designates a reserved ticket office. Due to automation, many smaller stations don't have a manned reservation window anymore, but will have a "video teller" type of assistance service on ticket machines.
Seat reservations may be difficult to obtain for travel during traditionally heavy travel periods. (29 December - 5 January, 29 April - 5 May, 13-15 August). Most Japanese and many Pass users wait to obtain reserved seats until they arrive at the station, since the frequency of trains in Japan is relatively high. However, nowadays, more and more seats are reserved well in advance, especially by tourists.
Rather than making multiple trips to a ticket office in Japan, if you have an extensive itinerary that is pretty well set, you can (1) Review train schedules (see below) and decide which trains you want to ride, (2) Write the itinerary information on paper as depicted below, and (3) submit the request sheet with your Pass at the reserved ticket office/window. The format shown below is similar to the Japanese request sheet and should help facilitate your requests and minimize language barriers.
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Mo
|
Day
|
Train Name
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Dep City
|
Dep
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Arr city
|
Arr
|
|
10
|
31
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Narita Express 40
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Narita Airport
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17:16
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Tokyo
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18:18
|
|
10
|
31
|
Hayabusa 103
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Tokyo
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18.56
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Sendai
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20:28
|
|
11
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01
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Hayabusa 13
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Sendai
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11:54
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Shin-Aomori
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13:29
|
|
11
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01
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Tsugaru 6
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Shin-Aomori
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13:43
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Hirosaki
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14:10
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Option 3: At a JR Station Automated Ticket Machines: Ticket machines may be helpful in view of the long and slow-moving queues that one encounters at ticket offices during peak times. Here's a step-by-step guide to using Ticket Machines to reserve seats AND pick up your reserve ticket with your JR Pass (QR code) and passport number in hand. By clicking the 'Japan Rail Pass button,' you'll see the three options at left.
Using Reserved Seat Tickets (Shitei ken) An example shitei ken (reserved seat ticket) appears below. (Actual size is a little less than 3 inches by 2 inches). Key ticket information is translated/notated in red. These are largely unchanged in size and purpose over the past 40 years. Since you DON'T insert them into the automated ticket turnstile, you really just refer to them to find your car and seat (which, car, row and seat). I keep them in my iPhone case.
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Some of the information may appear in
ro-maji or in English, but don't count on it, so learning the
Kanji for names of cities you'll be traveling to becomes helpful. Use the reserved seat ticket to determine your car and seat number, including where to stand on the train platform. You DO NOT need to insert the reserved seat ticket to get through the gate (just your Pass), but once seated and the train is moving, have your reserved seat ticket handy in case a conductor comes around asking to inspect everyone's ticket. You usually only need to show the conductor the reserved seat ticket and not the Pass. (He can tell by price of '¥***' that you're a pass holder.) Note: Most train conductors rarely check for tickets unless their handheld electronic device shows them a seat is occupied for which a reserved ticket has not been obtained.
Platform Navigation
In each train station and on each train platform (noriba or ho-mu), there are small signs that designate where specific car numbers stop on the platform. These signs are usually at above eye level or are painted right onto the platform at "shoe level." You need to know the name and departure time of the train you intend to ride; for example, "Komachi (at) 9:14," as well as your car number "11," which information appears on your reserved seat ticket. These signs are now electronic in all but the smallest stations (see examples above).
Before going to the track number/platform, you can determine which escalator to ride to end up closest to your car number (right-hand photo above). Train cars are consecutively numbered, so you can ride the optimal escalator up to the platform, then make your way up or down the platform until you find the place to wait for the car number listed on your reserved seat ticket. Also remember that anyone will help if you ask.
Airport-JR Train Navigation
Haneda Airport (HND)
There are two major international airports in Japan: Tokyo (Narita) and Osaka (Kansai). Starting in 2011, Tokyo's domestic airport, Haneda, began serving a limited number of international flights for foreign airlines-Delta, now only uses Haneda; Japan Airlines and All Nippon Airways have more numerous landing slots. Haneda is just a 15-20 minute monorail or cab ride to downtown Tokyo, so the discussion below focuses on the other international airports that are located somewhat distant from the cities they serve. Haneda's monorail, the 15-minute route from Haneda Airport to JR Hamamatsu-cho station, honors JR Passes.
Narita Airport (NRT) to Tokyo Station (and beyond)
There are two train lines (JR and Keisei) that go from Narita airport (basement stations) to the Tokyo area, which is 40+ miles distant. Of course, there are also limo and bus services available from Narita to Tokyo hotels and also long-distance bus routes, but this discussion assumes you are using JR trains to take advantage of the JR Pass. JR prices without the pass are about ¥3,000 one way. (Keisei's Skyliner costs about ¥2,500 one way, and is faster (45 minutes vs. 60 minutes), but takes you to Keisei Ueno station, about five minutes walk from JR Ueno station.)
JR's Narita Express (N'Ex) takes about one hour from Narita Airport to Tokyo station. Most N'Ex trains are nonstop, and all seats are reserved. During peak times, trains leave every 30 minutes, and hourly otherwise. After stopping at Tokyo station, a portion of the cars on the N'Ex train continue on to other Tokyo metropolitan area stops such as Shinjuku & Ikebukuro or Yokohama & Ofuna.
If your plans are to change trains at Tokyo station for points beyond, I highly recommend you plan ahead and obtain reserved seat tickets for the next leg(s) of your trip while you are still at the travel service center at the airport. Pay attention to the transfer time allowed between trains in Tokyo. Natives could negotiate a transfer in less than ten minutes, but you should allow at least 20 minutes the first time--the Tokyo station is huge, crowded and one can easily become turned around--ok, lost, there. Since the Tokyo station is so huge, if you're going south towards Kyoto on a Hikari bullet train after traveling from Narita on JR's Narita Express, I usually recommend riding N'Ex to Shinagawa, where changing to the Shinkansen is much easier and straightforward.
From the Tokyo station you can board a JR train to take you virtually anywhere in the country. Tokyo station expanded over the years by adding tracks tunneled underneath the original station and on elevated platforms above the original station. Narita Express arrives in 2B basement of Tokyo station, and the Shinkansen departs clear on the opposite side of the eki from elevated tracks, so you're riding a few escalators and walking through a maze of people, past all the local train lines. It's a bustling place. Navigation is easy, though, if you just look for overhead signs that are color coded. Bullet trains going north and east (JR East - Touhoku, Jouetsu, Hokuriku and Nagano Shinkansen) are designated with a FOREST GREEN color, whereas the bullet trains going south, towards Osaka/Kyoto( JR-Tokai - Tokaikdo/Sanyo Shinkansen) are ROYAL BLUE.
 |
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Typical example of overhead navigation signs you'll see in the 2B basement level of Tokyo station upon arrival from Narita Airport via the Narita Express. This sign is directing you upstairs to (from left to right) Tokyo area local lines, Shinkansen lines and subway lines (circles at far right)
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Once you've navigated upstairs and have passed through the separate Shinkansen turnstile, consult the overhead displays and information signs to determine your track number and where on the platform you should stand. Train name, car number, etc. are printed on your reserved seat ticket to assist you. If you do become lost, you can always ask for assistance by showing someone your reserved seat ticket-Japanese people are usually very willing to assist helpless foreigners.
Kansai Airport (KIX)
There are also two train lines that serve the
Osaka area's
Kansai Airport, JR and
Nankai. JR's express train between
Kansai Airport and JR
Shin-Osaka station is called
Haruka, which departs every 30 minutes. All seats are reserved. The cost is about
¥2,500 each way--free, of course, if you've activated and recieved your physical JR Pass. The average travel time is about 50 minutes.
Haruka continues on past
Shin-Osaka to
Kyoto, 25 minutes travel time, for an additional
¥1,000. (Total ticket price of about
¥3,500 if you didn't exchange your Pass). The private (non-JR)
Nankai line is more suited to locals in my opinion.
The
Kansai airport train station is about a six-minute walk from airport terminal's third floor level. There you'll find a travel service center located adjacent to the turnstile area where you can pick up your JR Pass and/or obtain reserved seat tickets.
Shinkansen Lines Map
Planning: Online Train Schedules, Smartphone Apps
Online timetables give you options for planning your travels in advance. Once you arrive in Japan, a printed (old-fashioned) jikokuhyou or a Smartphone App, discussed below, might make sense.
Online Schedules. For both pre-trip and in-Japan planning purposes, I recomm

end Jorudan's
Japan Transit Planner. This intuitive webpage allows
Ro-maji (Roman letter) searches for specific city points, dates and times, and then displays multiple suggested choices, with Japanese also appearing in the results display. It allows narrowed search parameters at the top of the main page for Rail Pass Search, helpful if you'll be using a JR Pass. The JR Pass is not valid on
Nozomi or
Mizuho (Kyushu) trains without extra charges, but is valid without extra charge on all other
Shinkansen. This search engine webpage is far more user-friendly than JR Group's Cyberstation discussed below.
Train Schedule Apps for Smartphones. Jorudan has a smartphone app using the same database described above for both iOS and Android.
Japan Transit Planner is the most downloaded transit guide in Japan and includes bus and airplane routes. I suggest downloading the app to your phone before you go to practice using it. Before going to Japan, I suggest arranging international data plan service to be able to use this app for your smartphone. My T-Mobile Plan has international data included and works very well. Alternatively, if you obtain a
Pocket Wi-Fi device, your smartphone can access the Internet anywhere in Japan.
Japanese Language Printed Schedules. If you can read Japanese, paperback
jikokuhyou (timetables) are still published monthly in Japan and sold just about wherever newspapers are so

ld, and range in price from about
¥400 for a small print version to about
¥1,000 for the deluxe full-sized version. As people go digital, I've seen less and less of these for sale in recent years. I've purchased them at kiosks located adjacent to the JR East Travel Service Center at both
Narita and Haneda airports. The
jikokuhyou are only in Japanese, but with a little practice, relatively easy to use if you know the
kanji for main cities. The full size version, which all train station ticket offices keep on hand, also lists cities in
hiragana. Hints for reading
jikokuhyou are discussed below. Another interesting thing about
jikokuhyou is that virtually
all public transportation, including buses and domestic air routes are listed in them. JR Train schedules usually remain unchanged for one year, from April 1 to March 31 of the following year (this interesting fiscal year is also almost always followed by companies and schools in Japan.) Usually the only exception is seasonal tourist trains that are added to the base schedules.
JR Group's web site, called
Cyberstation (Japanese and English) includes seat availability inquiry (limited to one month in advance), real time schedule inquiry (similar to US Airline arrival information) and fare information. You really need to know the train route names (
Touhoku Shinkansen, for example) to effectively use this site, which is only availble from 6 am to 11:50 pm, Japan Time. Seat availability is generally only a worry during peak holiday periods, such as: Golden Week, 29 April to 6 May, Obon (11-20 August), and New Years (28 December to 6 January).
Reserve versus 'On The Fly' If you're a real adventurer, have flexible timing, and especially if you're not traveling during a peak travel period, with JR Pass in hand, you can freely board any JR train without charge (except
Nozomi & Mizuho - JR Pass holders must ride
Hikari or
Sakura, respectively, for no extra charge) and sit even in an empty reserved seat. If a conductor comes around, just show him your Pass. He may move you to a reserved seat that he knows will not be filled on a subsequent stop. If you have destinations in mind, you can obtain reserved seats and assistance in advance as
discussed above.
Japanese Published Timetables--How to Read.
Below is a page from the large deluxe
jikokuhyou (timetable) mentioned above. These paperback books are largely unchanged since pre-Internet days. The
jikokuhyou is divided into sections of train routes, such as the
Touhoku Shinkansen shown below. Maps of Japan rail lines with page references are found at the front of the
jikokuhyou. You should note that the large deluxe version (about
¥1,000) is the only
jikokuhyou that lists city names on the first page of each section in
hiragana (as shown below); all smaller versions list them in
kanji only. These full-size
jikokuhyou are the kind that are found in each
eki (train station) on the desks near the
midori-no-madoguchi (green window/reserved ticket) counters to assist riders in choosing which train to reserve. They are also sold at bookstores and travel agencies. See also
Obtaining Reserved Seat Tickets.

Train names are at the top of each column. Hayate 90 is the one we'll look at. It is the third column over from the right-hand margin. Military time is used in Japan.
Hayate 90 departs Hachinohe at 9:19 AM and arrives in Tokyo at 12:44 PM.
During a 5-minute stop in Morioka, the Akita Shinkansen Komachi 90 links up with Hayate 90 and the combined train continues to Tokyo.
The name of each station is displayed in Kanji down the margin. (Hiragana, shown on the right-hand margin here, is only shown in the largest size version of jikokuhyou)
Miscellaneous Train Tips
Station Names All station names are in both Japanese and Roman letters on platforms, in the center of the signboard, in large letters; previous station and next station are at the bottom of the signboard, in smaller letters.
Station Displays All stations have electronic displays once inside the electronic gate to guide you to the proper platform for your train, which is easily found if you know your train name and departure time. Once on the platform, similar signs show departure times and train names.
Shinkansen and larger city station displays alternate between English and Japanese, as shown in the shot at left.
Onboard Announcements on all
Shinkansen and most
tokkyuu (limited express trains) are pre-recorded in both Japanese and English. Announcements generally give information about amenities and stops. You can also find electronic sign boards in most green cars (first class) that display information in both languages. About three minutes before a train stops, music plays and the stop and exit side (right or left) are announced. Most English language pre-recorded announcements are easy to understand. If the conductor makes supplemental announcements, he or she rarely tries English.
Onboard Train Mobile Phone Use (Don't!) Mobile phone (
keitai) use is allowed on trains in Japan, but
never inside a car in the seating area -
only in the 'deck,' the space between cars. Using a mobile phone while seated on a train is considered extremely rude and doing so will result in unhappy glares and stares at the 'ugly American' - just don't do it!
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